Textiles

In its simplest form, i.e., basketry, weaving probably pre-dated spinning, as in early cultures individuals presumably interlaced long fibrous stems with their fingers before they learned to convert short fibers into continuous yarn. Woven structures consist of two sets of threads, the warp and the weft, which are interlaced to form cloth. Warp threads are held parallel to each other under tension; the weft is worked over and under them, row by row. Looms have been used since the time of ancient Egyptians to keep the warp threads evenly spaced and under tension.

The following techniques are used to prepare the warp and the weft prior to weaving: 1) In doubling, two or more yarns are wound on a bobbin without undergoing any twisting (as distinct from spinning, in which fibers are twisted together to give them the requisite strength). In twisting doubling, two or more yarns are twisted around each other; 2) Sizing is done to make the warp threads smooth, to reduce the friction of the threads. The threads are coated or saturated with an adhesive paste (size); 3) Twisting joins the ends of a new warp with those of the one already in the loom. It is done by twisting the ends together, either by hand or with the aid of a special device.

Simple weaves are of three types: tabby, twill, and satin. Tabby weave, or plain weave, is produced by passing the weft across the warp twice. Twill weaves are characterized by a diagonal movement caused by starting the weave sequence one place to the right or left on each successive passage of the weft. Satin weave is distinguished by the spacing of the binding points, the normal sequence being over one warp, and under four or more. Compound weaves are based on the three basic weaves with the addition of extra warp, weft, or both. Velvet is a compound weave that starts as a basic weave.

Finger weaving techniques include twining and braiding. Twining uses two sets of yarns. In weft twining, the warp is stretched between two bars and the weft worked across in pairs. One thread passes over a warp and the other under, with the two yarns making a half turn around each other between each warp.